A modern electric oven typically has two or three heating elements: the fan element (the ring around the fan at the back), the grill element (across the top) and, on some models, a base element (concealed under the oven floor). Diagnosis starts by identifying which function has failed.
Turn off the power at the wall. Open the oven, remove the shelves and, on fan ovens, the rear panel (usually held by four screws). A failed element will often show a visible break — a small burnt-out gap in the coil. If the element looks bulged or has a bright silver splash mark, it has definitely failed. Not all failures are visible, though.
Isolate the oven at the wall. Disconnect the two spade terminals from the element and set your multimeter to Ohms (Ω). Touch the probes to the two element terminals. A healthy element reads between 20 Ω and 60 Ω depending on wattage. A reading of "OL" or infinity confirms the element has failed.
Safety: Never work on an oven without isolating it at the fuse box or wall socket. If you are not comfortable working on 230 V AC equipment, call a qualified electrician.
Elements are specific to the oven model. Order by the oven's model number (rating plate is on the door frame — open the door and look at the front edge). Wattage matters: fitting a higher-wattage element than specified will overwork the wiring and can be dangerous.
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